POLOLO in an interview with Heike Hess, head of the office of the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry
The International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN) is committed to sustainability, respect and responsibility towards the environment. This attitude should be implemented at all stages of production and sales and made known to as many people as possible. POLOLO conducted an interview with Heike Hess, head of the Berlin office:
Can you tell us briefly what goals and tasks your association, the IVN, pursues?
Hess: The main aim of the association is to significantly improve the environmental and social conditions in the textile and leather industry. We want to make consumers aware of the conditions involved in production - especially in low-wage countries - and convince them when buying clothes and shoes pay attention to sustainability. As a professional association, our goal is of course to support our members in the best possible way - through advice, networks, press work, political lobbying or the provision of our quality marks.
Can you also tell us briefly and concisely about the organic labels that you represent for textiles and leather?
The two quality marks are called BEST NATURAL TEXTILE and NATURAL LEATHER. They guarantee that the certified products are made from natural and sustainable raw materials that are produced without chemicals that are harmful to health or the environment. The production processes are subject to strict requirements regarding resource and water protection as well as waste disposal. All certified companies must demonstrably pay their workers fairly, ensure adequate occupational safety and ensure compliance with human rights. Certified products are free of harmful substances and meet high quality standards. The special thing about our certifications is that every single company that is involved in the production of a product is checked: from the farmer who breeds sheep to the tannery, dresser, shoe manufacturer and the retailer.
Why should you as an end consumer, especially as a parent, buy products made from natural leather or vegetable-tanned leather? Which health aspects are important, especially for babies and children?
On the one hand, you can be sure that you have done something for the environment by purchasing natural leather or even vegetable-tanned leather. What is certainly much more important is that vegetable tanned or even certified leather products do not contain any harmful substancesthat make you sick. Heavy metals, especially chromium, are of particular concern here, but also many other substances, such as formaldehyde, aromatic amines, chlorophenols, heavy metals - the chemical latin can go on and on. These substances can be carcinogenic, allergenic, hormone-damaging and much more - and they can settle in the human organism. This is particularly dangerous for children because their sensitivity is higher than that of adults. Children run around and sweat a lot, and their skin rubs against their clothes and shoes because of all the movement. Sweat and friction are particularly effective at releasing pollutants from shoes, which then reach the skin and the body. Babies also like to put their shoes in their mouths.
How do I as a consumer recognize good and reputable manufacturers of good children's shoes?
The easiest way is to look for seals that guarantee sustainability, health compatibility and quality. I have already mentioned the NATURAL LEATHER seal. But you can also look for the ÖkoTex or ECARF seal, they at least guarantee that Health tolerance. For me, membership in the IVN would now be an additional indication of the seriousness of manufacturers, as we carefully select our members.
Do natural leather have different properties than conventionally produced leather?
The performance properties of the leather remain the same when processed according to the NATURAL LEATHER guidelines completely preserved, which is often not the case with conventional leather. Especially through coatings with synthetic agents, the actually breathable leather is literally “pasted over”. Natural leather can also stain more easily, as these coatings also ensure that the color cannot come out of leather shoes.
You have also taken up the cause of supporting small and medium-sized businesses. Why is that so important? Are manufacturers of natural textiles and natural leather primarily family businesses?
In fact, it is mainly small and medium-sized pioneering companies that are certified with our two quality marks. The ideal motivation of our members is an important driving force for our work - and this is more likely to be found in smaller companies. Large companies have better opportunities to pursue sustainability goals through greater market power, higher budgets and personnel power. Smaller companies compensate for these advantages by joining forces, like ours in the association.
IVN is co-owner of the “Global Organic Textile Standard”. What significance does this seal have in Germany, what comparable national seals are there?
The GOTS is now quite well known among consumers in Germany. This is certainly due to the fact that consumers are increasingly asking for certified products and large discounters also occasionally offer GOTS goods. In terms of standards, the standard is slightly lower than that of the IVN seal, but it is still a trustworthy and holistic standard.
Is everything that says “organic” and “eco” also organic? Why is education from an association necessary for consumers?
In Germany, a product is “organic” if it is Raw materials produced in a controlled, ecological manner became; this is stipulated by the EU organic regulation. When it comes to clothing, the “organic” only refers to the raw fiber, i.e. cotton, wool, silk, linen, etc. How these fibers were then processed, i.e. how they are tanned, dyed or finished, is not regulated by law. The term “organic” does not make any statement about social standards or freedom from harmful substances. You can only buy really “clean” products if you pay attention to additional seals such as GOTS, NATURTEXTIL or NATURLEDER.
What distinguishes companies that are IVN certified from others?
The difference lies mainly in the products that these companies offer, because they are checked by independent certifiers throughout the entire production process. It is therefore not enough for companies or their suppliers to declare that they work sustainably. The products are, so to speak, sustainable with “letter and seal”. Certified companies take responsibility for the goods they offer, not just here on the market, but also for all the companies in which their products are manufactured. It is important to certified companies that their business neither pollutes the environment nor exploits the people who actually produce clothing and shoes.
Further information:
IVN
The International Association of the Natural Textile Industry
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