POLOLO in an interview with Heike Hess, head of the office of the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry
The International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN) is committed to sustainability, respect and responsibility towards the environment. This attitude should be implemented at all stages of production and sales and made known to as many people as possible. POLOLO conducted an interview with Heike Hess, head of the Berlin office:
Can you tell us briefly what goals and tasks your association, the IVN, pursues?
Hess: The association's main goal is to significantly improve environmental and social conditions in the textile and leather industry. We want to raise consumer awareness of the production conditions – especially in low-wage countries – and convince them to consider sustainability when buying clothes and shoes . As a trade association, our goal is also, of course, to provide our members with the best possible support – through consulting, networking, public relations, political lobbying, and the provision of our quality labels.
Can you also tell us briefly and concisely about the organic labels that you represent for textiles and leather?
The two quality labels are NATURTEXTIL BEST and NATURLEDER . They guarantee that the certified products are made from natural and sustainable raw materials, produced without harmful chemicals that are detrimental to health or the environment. Production processes are subject to strict regulations regarding resource and water protection, as well as waste disposal. All certified companies must demonstrably pay their workers fairly, ensure adequate workplace safety, and guarantee respect for human rights. Certified products are free of harmful substances and meet high quality standards. What makes our certifications special is that every single company involved in the production of a product is audited: from the farmer raising the sheep, through the tannery, the finishing department, the shoe manufacturer, and finally the retailer.
Why should you as an end consumer, especially as a parent, buy products made from natural leather or vegetable-tanned leather? Which health aspects are important, especially for babies and children?
Firstly, you can be sure that by buying natural leather or even vegetable-tanned leather, you've done something good for the environment. But even more importantly, vegetable-tanned or certified leather products don't contain harmful substances that can make you sick. Heavy metals, especially chromium, are particularly concerning, but so are many other substances like formaldehyde, aromatic amines, chlorophenols, and heavy metals – the list of chemicals goes on. These substances can be carcinogenic, allergenic, hormone-disrupting, and much more – and they can accumulate in the human body. This is especially dangerous for children, as their sensitivity is higher than that of adults. Children are very active and sweat a lot, and their skin rubs against their clothes and shoes due to their movements. Sweat and friction are particularly effective at releasing harmful substances from shoes, allowing them to reach the skin and enter the body. Babies also often put their shoes in their mouths.
How do I as a consumer recognize good and reputable manufacturers of good children's shoes?
The simplest way is to look for seals that guarantee sustainability, health compatibility, and quality. I've already mentioned the NATURLEDER seal. But you can also look for the Oeko-Tex or ECARF seals, which at least guarantee health compatibility . For me, membership in the IVN (International Association of Leather Goods Manufacturers) would also be an additional indicator of a manufacturer's reliability, as we carefully select our members.
Do natural leather have different properties than conventionally produced leather?
The functional properties of leather are fully preserved when processed according to NATURLEDER guidelines , which is often not the case with conventional leather. Coatings with synthetic agents, in particular, effectively "seal" the naturally breathable leather. Natural leathers can also bleed color more easily, as these coatings also prevent the color from bleeding out of leather shoes.
You have also taken up the cause of supporting small and medium-sized businesses. Why is that so important? Are manufacturers of natural textiles and natural leather primarily family businesses?
In fact, it is primarily small and medium-sized pioneering companies that seek certification with our two quality labels. The idealistic motivation of our members is a key driving force behind our work – and this is more readily found in smaller businesses. Large corporations have greater resources, including larger budgets and personnel, to pursue sustainability goals. Smaller companies compensate for these advantages by joining forces, as they do within our association.
IVN is co-owner of the “Global Organic Textile Standard”. What significance does this seal have in Germany, what comparable national seals are there?
The GOTS label is now quite well-known among consumers in Germany. This is certainly due to the increasing demand for certified products and the fact that even large discount retailers occasionally offer GOTS-certified goods. While the standard is somewhat lower than that of the IVN label, it is nevertheless a trustworthy and comprehensive standard.
Is everything that says “organic” and “eco” also organic? Why is education from an association necessary for consumers?
In Germany, a product is labeled "organic" if the raw materials were produced according to controlled organic standards ; this is stipulated by the EU Organic Regulation. However, in the case of clothing, "organic" refers only to the raw fiber, such as cotton, wool, silk, linen, and so on. How these fibers are subsequently processed—how they are tanned, dyed, or finished—is not regulated by law. Therefore, the term "organic" makes no statement about social standards or the absence of harmful substances. Truly "clean" products can only be purchased by looking for additional certifications such as GOTS, NATURTEXTIL, or NATURLEDER.
What distinguishes companies that are IVN certified from others?
The main difference lies in the products these companies offer, because they are audited by independent certifiers throughout the entire production process. It's not enough for companies or their suppliers to simply claim to operate sustainably. The products are, in effect, certified sustainable . Certified companies thus assume responsibility for the goods they offer, not only on the market but also for all the factories where their products are manufactured. It is important to certified companies that their business does not harm the environment or exploit the people who actually produce the clothing and shoes.
More information:
IVN
The International Association of the Natural Textile Industry
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